{"id":2285,"date":"2020-10-22T13:19:00","date_gmt":"2020-10-22T13:19:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/familiakitchen.com\/?p=2285"},"modified":"2024-09-15T18:10:26","modified_gmt":"2024-09-15T18:10:26","slug":"history-pozole-a-tale-of-celebration-sacrifice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/familiakitchen.com\/es\/history-pozole-a-tale-of-celebration-sacrifice\/","title":{"rendered":"Historia del pozole: una historia de celebraci\u00f3n y sacrificio"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Do you know the dark historia of this beloved Mexican soup?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pozole<\/a> is a hearty, thick soup made with pork, hominy<\/a>, garlic and chiles. It\u2019s a beloved traditional dish in Mexico and the U.S. Southwest, if we keep things s\u00faper official and go by Merriam-Webster<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But if you\u2019re at all familiar with the Sunday morning cruda that follows a quince, baptism, wedding or everyday-casual family kickback, you\u2019ll know that pozole is less food and more magical elixir for hangovers and too much fun. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Also: Are you aware of its not-so-savory history? Grab yourself a bowl<\/a>, and get to know the complex origins of one Mexico\u2019s oldest dishes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The History, Roots & Rituals of Pozole<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Pozole comes from the Nahuatl word pozolli<\/em>, or posolli<\/em>, which in English translates to a stew of ma\u00edz kernels<\/a>, according to the Nahuatl Dictionary<\/a> by the Wired Humanities Projects at the University of Oregon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, you can find a bowl of pozole at many carnicerias or familias\u2019 tables, but it was originally regarded as a meal for the privileged elite of the Aztec empire. A bit similarly to how it\u2019s served today, the dish was often made for special occasions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the Mexicas, the Nahuatl-speaking indigenous people of the Valley of Mexico who were the rulers of the Aztec Empire, these pozole occasions were to celebrate:  gods, good harvests and changing seasons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In honor of Tl\u00e1loc, the god of rain and rain deities, Aztecs held a festival during February and March known as Atlcahualo\u2014to usher in the rain needed for planting. Soon after Atlcahualo came the feast of Tlacaxipehualiztli , celebrating the year\u2019s harvest and commemorating how the Mexica obtained and inherited corn from the Toltecs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe pre-colonial form of pozole, which combined human flesh and the white cacahuazintle corn associated with Iztacmizc\u00f3atl, the White Cloud Serpent, was meaningful to the Aztecs, both culturally and ritualistically.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

During Tlacaxipehualiztli every spring, the year\u2019s harvest was sown and ears of corn were offered to Xipe T\u00f3tec, \u201cthe god of the renewal of vegetation in the spring (i.e., as a fertility figure), as a god of liberation (i.e., particularly, as a penitential figure), as the central figure in a cult of \u2018trophy skins,\u2019 \u2026 even as a phallic god,\u201d wrote history and phenomenology professor Franke J. Neumann in a 1976 paper: \u201cThe Flayed God and His Rattle-Stick: A Shamanic Element in Pre-Hispanic Mesoamerican Religion<\/a>.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But while the festivities were meant to be celebratory, they were also gruesome. Human sacrifices were part of the rituals to appease the god. <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Mask
A Mixtec-Aztec mask from the 15th-16th century. Wonder if this guy ate pre-Hispanic pozole?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Pozole in Aztec History<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The dish we know and love today was first documented by a 16th-century Spanish Franciscan missionary who arrived in Mexico in 1529. In his Florentine Codex: General History of the Matters of New Spain<\/a><\/em>, Fray Bernardino de Sahag\u00fan documented the rituals, daily life and culture of the Aztec people. Not to learn about who they were and how they lived, but to better understand how to undermine their gods and, ultimately, convert the indigenous people to Christianity. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of the topics he wrote about was the precursor of pozole. Today we enjoy pozole with chicken or pork, but the pre-colonial recipe featured something a little different. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The dish Sahagun wrote about was called tlacatlaolli,<\/em> which he described as \u201ca maize stew fed to the captor and his family at the time when they would also be eating a piece of the flesh of the captive after his heart was removed for offering to the deities.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s right: here\u2019s where we start to get to human sacrifice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But first, during pre-colonial times, the meat of choice for non-ceremonial pozole was a rodent called tepezcuintle\u2014not<\/em> xoloitzcuintle<\/a>, a breed of dog commonly mistaken as the soup\u2019s protein, or itzcuintlis, a dog often used in Mexica cuisine in the 1500s and 1600s\u2014according to research by the Gobierno de M\u00e9xico<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A second choice of protein for early pozole is a bit more familiar\u2014and gory: human. Research shows that during this time, human flesh was consumed as part of special rituals. The remains were chopped and cooked with ma\u00edz, and the meal was shared as part of religious communion. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The pre-colonial form of pozole, which combined human flesh and the white cacahuazintle corn associated with Iztacmizc\u00f3atl, the White Cloud Serpent, was meaningful to the Aztecs, both culturally and ritualistically. The soup symbolized \u201cthe rite where the permanent duality of the Nahua’s mystical vision was verified: origin and end, heaven and earth, day and night, symbolized in many ways in his arts, in his philosophy and in his rites: Quetzalc\u00f3atl who crawls- flies with the serpent-eagle, in his earthly-divine condition,\u201d writes Alfonso de Jes\u00fas Jim\u00e9nez Mart\u00ednez in his \u201cRetrieving Meanings: The Ritual Meaning of Pozole in Aztec Society.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cannibalism was banned, according to the academic, after the Spanish conquest, and pork became the staple meat because it tasted very similar [to human flesh]. (Makes you feel a bit differently about pork, doesn\u2019t it?)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, with the exception of one big thing (starts with human, ends with sacrifice), the ritual of eating pozole 500 years ago is pretty similar to how we enjoy the dish today. Whether you prefer pozole rojo, verde, blanco or whichever of the other 20 variants of pozole, the pre-colonial ritual celebrated by the Aztec empire is one that has lasted conquest, assimilation and religious oppression: We gather, we celebrate, we eat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Photos: David Monte, Max Letek<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\u00bfConoces la oscura historia de esta querida sopa mexicana? Pozole es una sopa espesa y abundante hecha con carne de cerdo, ma\u00edz molido, ajo y chiles. Es un plato tradicional muy querido en M\u00e9xico y el suroeste de EE. UU., si mantenemos las cosas s\u00faper oficiales y nos guiamos por Merriam-Webster. Pero si est\u00e1s familiarizado con la cruda del domingo por la ma\u00f1ana que sigue al membrillo,...","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2286,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","bs_cache_bypass_cache":0},"categories":[5,95],"tags":[300,306,303,304,283,299,301],"ingrediente":[285,121,334,176,113],"comida_type":[237,108,372,111,236,98],"destination":[62],"food_mood":[341,342],"class_list":["post-2285","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-article","category-featured-recipe","tag-aztec","tag-bernardino-de-sahagun","tag-human-sacrifice","tag-nahuatl","tag-pozole","tag-pozole-rojo","tag-pozole-verde-mixtexa","ingrediente-cabbage","ingrediente-garlic","ingrediente-hominy","ingrediente-jalapeno","ingrediente-pork","comida_type-big-groups","comida_type-christmas","comida_type-dia-de-los-muertos","comida_type-fathersday","comida_type-main-dish","comida_type-sundaydinner","destination-mexico","food_mood-festive","food_mood-nostalgic"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nHistory of Pozole: A Tale of Celebration & Sacrifice – Familia Kitchen<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Are you aware of its not-so-savory history of pozole? 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