Concho’s Papa a la Huancaina: Peruvian Cheesy, Starchy Goodness

Papa a la Huancaina is a mandatory dish whenever Cecilia Wong’s family gathers for birthdays, Noche Buena and other celebrations. 

Back when Cecilia was growing up in Lima, Peru, this cheesy-starchy-creamy potato favorite was almost always on the dinner table. And it’s easy to see why. 

Papa a la huancaina is a hearty, traditional side made with items commonly found in Peruvian kitchens: potatoes, queso fresco, eggs and the nation’s favorite pepper: aji amarillo. The dish gets its name from a mountainous region in Peru called Huancayo, in the Andes highlands. It’s simple to make, and bursts with flavors and textures: The fruity heat from the aji amarillo, freshly chopped parsley, bright lime juice, and velvety creamy queso fresco. 

The take-her-back-to-childhood taste of this dish is thanks, in part, to its use of evaporated milk, Cecilia says. “Maybe it’s the influence of the ‘80s, but the can of evaporated milk is a clutch ingredient in this recipe and other Peruvian classics. I credit the stuff with providing a sweet, rich twist to an already delectable mix of salty, sweet and spicy profiles.”

The family receta connects Cecilia, who today lives in Chicago, to her mom — literally. Not only does it remind her of home, it turns out she can’t make papa a la Huancaina without calling home, she says. “My mom, Concho, ‘taught’ me how to make this dish. I put taught in quotation marks because it’s really not past tense. She teaches me how to make it just about every time I make it. That’s because whenever I try to cook any of her dishes, I FaceTime her to make sure I’m getting it right. Every. Single. Time. Even if I know how to make something by heart, it’s comforting to hear her provide those wonderfully imprecise directions and tips — such as “échale un peñisco de sal” (”toss in a pinch of salt”) or “no se cuantos minutos, dóralo hasta que huela rico” (“I don’t know how many minutes, just brown it until it smells good“) — that are the secret sauce to any good family recipe.”

One of Cecilia’s top tips for making the best-ever version of this dish is nailing the base. In other words: Focus on the potatoes. Because great papas make a great Huancaina.

“Potatoes, period, are a basic food group to Peruvians,” Cecilia says. “There are over 3,500 types of potatoes grown in Peru. And, with all due respect, the taste of Peruvian potatoes puts all others to shame.” And then it’s all about the sauce: “A really good papa a la huancaína is as much about the sauce as it is about the potato at its base,” she adds.

Cecilia recommends going the extra effort to find authentic yellow Peruvian potatoes. Luckily, many specialty Latino markets carry it in the frozen food section, right by the frozen aji amarillo, yellow peppers (another traditional ingredient you’ll need to get that authentic taste). Unfortunately, neither ingredient is typically grown in the U.S. But Cecilia assures that the frozen alternatives still result in a delicioso dish. If you’re not lucky enough to live near a Latino market and absolutely need a Peruvian yellow potato substitute, go for Yukon gold, she advises.

One last question: What does she think about when she heads into the kitchen to make her mom’s papa a la Huancaina? “Family parties; beso en el cachete; cheesy, starchy goodness; connection,” she says. All the good things — and why cooking our way home is what we live for here at Familia Kitchen.

Gracias, Cecilia, to you and your mom, Concho, for this celebration of cheesy-starchy goodness, Peruvian-style.

Find more abuela-approved Peruvian family recipes here, or submit your own! And if you want to keep cooking delicioso dishes from Peru, we can’t think of a better one than the country’s star starter: ceviche.

Ready to make this abuela-approved papa a la Huancaina?

Concho’s Papa a la Huancaína

Recipe by Cecilia Wong

0.0 from 0 votes

Cuisine: Peruvian

Servings

8

servings

Prep time

20

minutes

Cooking time

30

minutes

Ingredients

• 8 to 10 yellow potatoes

• 5 to 6 Tbsp vegetable oil, divided

• 2 to 3 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 onion, chopped

• 2 to 3 frozen aji amarillos, cut in half and seeded OR (see below)

• 2 Tbsp ground aji amarillo OR (see above)

• 8 to 10 oz queso blanco or farmer’s cheese, cut in chunks

• 12 oz evaporated milk (1 can)

• 1 tsp salt

• 1/4 tsp black pepper

• 1/2 lime, juiced

• For the Garnish

• black olives, whole

• parsley, chopped

• eggs, hard-boiled and sliced

Directions

• Peel the potatoes.
• Place the whole potatoes in a large pot with water to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, but not mushy. Strain and set aside.
• In a saucepan, warm about 3 Tbsp of oil. Sauté the garlic, onions and aji amarillo for a few minutes until translucent (sofrito-style).
• Place the sautéd garlic, onions and aji amarillo into a blender, along with the chunks of queso fresco or farmer’s cheese.
• Pulse, adding evaporated milk little by little until the consistency is creamy and semi-thick.
• Add salt, black pepper and lime juice. Pulse.
• When everything is well blended, add 1 to 2 Tbsp of oil to silken the texture.
• Serve the sauce over a bed of thickly sliced potatoes. Garnish with whole black olives, chopped parsley, and slices of hard-boiled eggs.

Notes

• This dish tastes best with Peruvian yellow potatoes. If you can’t find fresh ones (and you likely won’t in the U.S., says Cecilia), look for frozen ones at a Latino market or use Yukon gold potatoes. The results will still be delicioso, she promises.