Red Enchiladas with Queso Fresco and Onion, Michoacan-Style
- September 2023
- By Vivi Abeja
- Recipe from Mexico
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- (6)
Red enchiladas are made only one way in Vivi Abeja’s family. Others may fill their enchiladas with slow-simmered chicken, beans, beef or vegetables. But in Vivi’s kitchen in Little Village, a traditionally Mexican neighborhood in Chicago, none of those delicioso options are even considered.
”I stick to Michoacan-style,” says Vivi. ”Crumbled queso fresco and chopped onion.” It’s a family tradition going back generations, and she’s proudly cooking it forward.
One of our favorite Mexican cooks and a popular contributor to Familia Kitchen, Vivi, 31, was born in Chicago and has lived there all her life. But her family story starts in her grandparents’ birthplace: Nocupetaro — called “one of the poorest municipalities” in Mexico’s central-west state of Michoacan, near the Pacific Coast. Vivi grew up hearing tales of her abuelos travels to Chicago with their eight children a half century ago. They found a church, community and home (in that order, says Vivi) in Little Village, and went on to put down deep roots in the U.S. — always keeping their hometown traditions close.
Her abuelita, Elisa Abeja, took pride in feeding her family and iglesia friends traditional meals from her village. Dishes like these Michocan-style enchiladas, made with fresh, simple, affordable ingredients cooked with skill and love. Her grandmother called her style of cooking comida de pobre, or poor-people food. It was both a mission and a necessity, since there were so many children and grandkids to feed, says Vivi.
Vivi misses her Abuelita, deeply. She died this past February, at age 92. “She went right to heaven, where she will be joining my grandfather,” says Vivi. Her grandmother taught Vivi so many life and cooking lessons, and Vivi is committed to furthering comida de pobre in her professional work as a cook, she says, by championing dishes like these echiladas rojas.
“This recipe means a lot to me. Enchiladas reminds me of family and community. My grandmother worked the summer festival, August Fest, in our neighborhood every summer. This is a festival that takes place in front of the church we all went to it. She would be in the enchilada stand with the other church volunteers. Our whole family would go there and eat these enchiladas.”
The First Enchilada: Who Made It?
The enchilada’s history has royal origins. The earliest written record of this dish was recorded by Spain’s Bernal Díaz del Castillo, who first entered the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán on November 8, 1519. The conquistadores were invited to a lavish feast for King Moctezuma II. Among the 1,000 dishes served for the guests and 300 for the rey alone, was this delicacy, the conquistador wrote in his 1576 Historia Verdadera de la Conquista de la Nueva España. ”Two … young women of great beauty brought the monarch tortillas, as white as snow, cooked with eggs and other nourishing ingredients, on plates covered with clean napkins.”
Historians point to this as the first reference to enchiladas. They were made with tortillas made of corn, which was domesticated in Mesoamerica somewhere between 7,000 and 9,000 years ago.
Further south, the Maya had also long been making a type of enchilada, by the time the conquistadores showed up. ”As early as the preclassical period (circa 2000 to 250 BC), the Maya of the Yucatan Peninsula are known to have dipped corn tortillas in pumpkin seeds, rolled them around a chopped, hard-boiled egg and then covered them in a rich tomato sauce. But the Aztecs were the first to develop the first ‘true’ enchilada,’” reports History Today.
Learning Family Recipe for Red Enchiladas
Does Vivi remember the first time she made this family recipe for red enchiladas?”
”My aunts and abuela taught me how to make this by just coming together and making food in the kitchen,” she remembers. “Everyone had a job: Prep the filling, fry the tortillas, roll the tortillas, and then plate. It’s always an assembly line when we all come together in the kitchen.”
During the early days of COVID, inspired by her grandmother’s faith and belief in the power of feeding others, Vivi started making and selling her grandmother’s family recipes on the streets of Little Village. Spotted for her talent, Vivi was invited to attend a community-based cooking school Food He.ro, the first Latino-led culinary school that builds culinary confidence through resources for Latinos who are either new in the food industry or want to start a food business. She graduated in the first-ever class and is now a rising chef on the Chicago cooking scene. She often hosts a Mexican food cook-along Live series on her Instagram channel Vivis_Table.
All thanks to her abuelita’s kitchen inspiration, says Vivi.
Now Vivi is the one making these Michoacan-style enchiladas for her large family and friends. She especially loves feeding them to first-timers. ”I like to make these enchiladas with queso and onion when I have guests over because it’s such a treat. I love carrying forward the idea of cooking together and creating an assembly line to provide everyone a meal.”
Like the many Mexican traditional comida de pobre dishes her abuelita proudly made for her family and church events, all ”her dishes are like liquid gold for us,” says Vivi.
Find more of the family-famous recipes — including frijoles guisados or stewed pinto beans, uchepos or corn tamales, and flautas de papa — Vivi learned from her abuela here.
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