Pat’s Favorite Cuban Black Bean Soup
- October 2021
- By Michelle Ezratty Murphy
- Recipe from Cuba
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- (48)
Growing up in Puerto Rico, Pat Murphy — the husband of one of our favorite Puerto Rican food cocineras Michelle Ezratty Murphy — siempre looked forward to the smoky black bean soup made from scratch by his aunt’s Cuban neighbor.
Luckily, the vecina came over with a big container of the black bean soup frequently.
While bean dishes are plentiful and much loved across Latin America, Pat especially loves his neighbor’s sopa for its unmistakably Cuban sabor. For one, the beans are black. Second, the soup is flavored with lime juice and cumin. And third: Ham hocks! In Puerto Rico, a stew or soup like this would typically call for diced ham. But this Cuban recipe uses on-the-bone ham hocks, adding a distinctly authentic Cuban texture. Plus, its use of bone marrow gives the dish a deep, earthy flavor that makes it one of Pat’s forever-favorite soups — in both cold and hot weather.
Quality ham hock comes from a butcher, so be sure to buy one from your local carnicero, Pat and Michelle advise. And for the tastiest ham of all, wait until someone is roasting a pig and get yourself invited, they add. When she was growing up on the island, Michelle remembers entire towns in Puerto Rico specializing in selling lechón asado from whole roasted pigs on the spit. People would travel from all over for a plate of the delicious cerdo with all the fixings. That’s the spirit of the ham hocks you want for this soup, if you can find them. That said, this black bean soup recipe is so good, it will work with regular grocery store ham hocks, if that is all you can find, they say.
While Michelle and Pat now live far away from the Caribbean in landlocked Arizona, they crave Cuban and Puerto Rican food — often — and are willing to put in the time and effort to achieve the mouth-watering depth of flavor at home. You’ll often find them cooking criollo dishes like Pat’s Titi Rosa’s arroz con pollo, culling through 30 recipes to make the ultimate Cuban ropa vieja, baking empanadas de picadillo, and most sumptuous and time consuming of all: making from-scratch holiday pasteles made with yautía, green bananas and pork for the holidays.
High on their list of must-make comidas, of course: this classic black bean soup. It’s a perfect example of how sturdy and flavorful Latino dishes need to be. “Latin American food has to be able to sit in a pot on a stove all day long,” says Michelle, admiringly — and still taste delicious, always at the ready when the family comes over, because large groups of people must be fed. Back in Puerto Rico, when he was growing up, a huge caserola of something delicioso would be simmering on his aunt’s stove, waiting for Pat and his cousins to drop by and enjoy.
“It’s a beautiful, beautiful thing, that is for sure,” Michelle said, adding that even if family and friends stopped by at different times, they could always count on great company and food, often including this smoky-savory black bean soup, bien calientita and ready to serve.
Check out more criollo recipes from these married expert cocineros!
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