Fiambre, Guatemala’s Traditional Day of the Dead Dish
- November 2023
- By Jeannifer Hernandez
- Recipe from Guatemala
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Fiambre is an enormous cold salad made in Guatemala for Dia de los Muertos on Nov. 1 every year. The platter is typically made with an astonishing combination of sliced meats, cold cuts, cheeses, vegetables and pickled delicacies — piled high. ”Fiambre has more than 18 ingredients and can go as many as 100, depending on each family’s tradition and tastes,” says Chicago mom Jeannifer Hernandez.
This November 1, Jeannifer is proudly bringing her fiambre family recipe to her daughter Sophia’s Day of the Dead celebration at Sacred Heart school in the city. Her dish will be served alongside a very special chocolate marquesa cake from Venezuela and hot, chocolatey champurrado from Mexico that other Sacred Heart parents are bringing in honor of the many culinary ways Day of the Dead is celebrated across Latin America.
”I learned to make fiambre watching my grandmother and mom preparing it. How they would go about getting the ingredients together a few days before the special day,” Jeannifer says. ”Now that my grandma is in heaven, making this gives me a connection to her.”
Jeannifer grew up in Guatemala City and moved to the United States at age 16. Making this traditional dish every year on Day of the Dead helps her pass on her homeland’s religious and cultural traditions to the next generation in her family. “My Abuelita had an altar where she used to put flowers and candles,” Jeannifer remembers. ”Now, we mainly prepare this dish on November 1 in memory of our loved ones in heaven. That’s how we celebrate them.”
According to lore, the dish — the word fiambre in Spanish means “cold cuts” — came into existence because families traditionally visited their loved ones’ graves every Nov. 1, and took their favorite foods while they prayed and told stories of the dead. Over time, the graveyard visitors started combining their meals, the tale goes — and the resulting concoction became the official dish of Guatemala’s Day of the Dead celebration.
Fiambre is traditionally served at the annual feast in one giant platter — all the components layered together beautifully— or separately in a series of containers. There are four ways of making it: 1) fiambre rojo, like Jeannifer’s recipe, which includes beets that give the entire dish a red hue; 2) fiambre blanco, without beets; 3) fiambre verde, without meat; and 4) fiambre desarmado or deconstructed, in which each ingredient is served separately, like a giant salad bar.
”My family’s recipe is special and unique because each family finds their own flavors. So that means you can add and take out whatever your family’s tastes desire. And this is ours,” says Jeannifer.
This time-intensive, nostalgic meal is made just once a year, says Jeannifer. Each household works for days to marinate, cook, pickle and otherwise prep the average 50 items that go into the dish. To save time, ”I go to Mexican grocery stores in Chicago and buy a lot of the ingredients already prepared,” Jeannifer says.
While she’s at the Mexican tienda picking up items like al pastor-style pork, steak and other ready-to-serve foods, Jeannifer says she makes sure to always bring home a package of tostadas. That is how her daughter likes to eat fiambre. Sophia takes a smattering of her favorite meats and the curtido, the vinegar-cured cabbage and other vegetables garnish, and stuffs them into a tostada, says her mom. “We tell her that she likes to eat enchiladas Guatemaltecas,” jokes Jeannifer.
Sophia’s way of enjoying fiambre may not be traditional, but that’s the point of this dish. Every family customizes the sprawling buffet of ingredients, tailoring the meal to include their favorite flavors, as well as those of their much-missed family members who are no longer with us. (For more on the healing connection between Day of the Dead food, drink and grief, read our interview with Mexican therapist Valentina Prida.)
Ready to Make Guatemalan Fiambre for Day of the Dead?
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